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[GUIDED TOUR 導賞] Fibres of Life: IKAT Textiles of the Indonesian Archipelago 生如錦繡:印尼群島的伊卡絣織
posted by University Museum and Art Gallery for HKU and Public
Event Type: Exhibition
Event Nature: Culture and Arts

Event Details

“Fibres of Life: IKAT Textiles of the Indonesian Archipelago” Exhibition

The University Museum and Art Gallery (UMAG) is pleased to announce “Fibres of Life: IKAT Textiles of the Indonesian Archipelago” from September 15 to November 26, 2017. With the exhibition and the publication of “Ikat Textiles of the Indonesian Archipelago”, UMAG offers a comprehensive overview of the profusion of ikat styles found across the Indonesian archipelago, accompanied by the first detailed reference book on the subject.

Looking at Peter ten Hoopen’s Pusaka Collection from a scholarly point of view, it is worth acknowledging how it illustrates the concept of ‘unity in diversity’, which the young state of Indonesia chose as its motto upon independence. Here, the interwoven-ness of styles from neighbouring island regions matter, as do their marked individuality and idiosyncrasies. Moreover, it allows for the study not just of the people’s finery, but also of their daily attire, which is lamentably absent in most collections.

An ironic illustration of the effect of this collecting method comes from Ili Mandiri on Flores. As its dark red bridewealth sarongs have been prized and venerated by the local population, this is what most sophisticated collections have aimed to obtain. The simple but lovely indigo sarongs for everyday use have been almost entirely ignored by collectors; hence, they nearly always end up worn to shreds and very few survive—rarer now than the precious and respected, hence eagerly collected, bridewealth sarongs.

What knowledge is conserved about ikat textiles and their use in the Indonesian archipelago consists primarily of the records of missionary and scientific fieldwork, predominantly compiled by non-Indonesians. The coverage is thin—many weaving regions are covered by only one or two sources, and several regions have never been studied in any detail. Much traditional knowledge is being lost, especially in the more remote island regions in the Indonesian archipelago, which require concerted effort if any trace of their culture is to survive. UMAG hopes to contribute to the broader project by means of this exhibition and publication, which shows ikat culture through a close reading of examples from over fifty weaving regions and a brief introduction to the conditions, beliefs and customs of the various peoples who have created and used them. The Pusaka Collection reveals the stylistic spectrum of the archipelago's ikat, while also showing remarkable correspondences rooted in time or sculpted by inter-island cultural exchanges. It is rich in superb and rare ikat textiles, many with few known cognates and some of them probably unique.

《生如錦繡:印尼群島的伊卡絣織》展覽

香港大學(港大)美術博物館將於2017年9月15日至11月26日舉辦《生如錦繡:印尼群島的伊卡絣織》展覽。透過是次展覽,及首本與展覽主題相關的研究專著——《印尼群島的伊卡絣織》,詳盡闡述印尼群島豐富多樣的伊卡織品風格。

從學術角度出發,便可見胡彼得的普撒卡收藏展示了年輕國家印尼於獨立後所持「多元一體」的座右銘。普撒卡收藏呈獻出印尼境內鄰近群島的織品,其風格相互交織的同時,亦顯出別樹一格的特質,不僅讓人能夠探討群島居民豔麗的衣飾,更讓人了解到於大部分收藏中罕見的日常服裝。

大部分傳統的收藏方式側重華麗的服飾,例如同是在弗洛勒斯島上的「伊利蔓德拉」,深赤色的聘禮用圍裙備受本地人及收藏家重視與推崇,然而精緻的靛藍色日常用圍裙卻幾乎完全被收藏家所忽略。導致這些精緻的日常用織品隨著歲月而變得殘破,其存世數量相較於那些備受珍視、尊重與積極收藏的聘禮用圍裙更為稀少。

有關伊卡織品及印尼群島人們對織品的用法等知識,主要來自傳教士的記錄及科學的實地考察,當中絕大多數由非印尼人士撰寫。這些記錄涵蓋範圍較為狹窄——許多織造地區只有一、兩處資料,某些地區甚至從未被仔細考察。許多傳統知識,尤其是屬於印尼群島較偏遠島嶼的,正逐漸遺失;故需研究者同心協力以保存他們的文化。香港大學美術博物館期望透過是次展覽及專著,深入了解來自超過五十個織造地區的織品,展出伊卡文化,並簡要介紹不同織造者與使用者的境況、信仰和習俗。普撒卡收藏既揭示一系列不同群島的伊卡風格,同時亦反映出因群島之間的長期文化交流,在風格上造成的顯著共通點。這些物料上乘而稀有的伊卡織品,部分擁有少量已知的同類織品,有些則是獨一無二的。

Date/Time19/11/2017 15:00-15:20
Venue1/F, T.T. Tsui Building, University Museum and Art Gallery, HKU
LanguageCantonese

Registration Instruction

Registration is open from 12/09/2017 12:00(HKT) to 15/11/2017 18:00(HKT) on a first-come-first-served basis.

* Registration is now closed.

Contact Information

For further information, please visit:
http://www.umag.hku.hk/tc/

Should you have any enquiries, please feel free to contact Chelsea Choi by email at cchelsea@hku.hk